Pet care for iguanas

One might think that the fascination with reptiles begins with dinosaurs. Dinosaurs were the reptiles that once ruled the earth. Bringing home a reptile as a pet is sort of a consolation prize to have never lived in the time of the dinosaur. Reptiles remind us that there are creatures in this world that existed without human presence.

The most common reptile to have as a pet is the green iguana. The iguana has become in such demand that many of them are ending up in animal shelters and rescue organizations because many uninformed owners end up getting rid of their pets. An iguana is often an impulse buy. Many parents buy iguanas for their children and often their special needs are neglected; as a result, they die or become severely ill. It is important to become educated about the needs of an iguana before buying one. It is also important to do research into the origin of the iguana that you are thinking about purchasing. The demand in America for iguanas as pets has increased drastically and thus many are imported to the United States from Central America and South America. Others are bred here in the United States through breeder programs. You do not want to purchase an animal that has been taken out of the wild. Many of these animals are not tame enough to be pets. Many may not survive because they are not used to living in an environment that serves their needs artificially. You should also research breeders before you buy. Many states in the United States require the breeders and sellers of reptiles to have a license issued by the USDA. Ask the breeder about this; any reputable breeder should know what you are taking about and also be able to show proof of license (if that is required in your state).

You should choose an iguana with clear, bright eyes and a healthy physique. The plump physique indicates that the animal is well fed and is also well hydrated. The skin should be a vivid shade of green and free of bumps and discoloration. The animal should be docile and appear interested in its surroundings. The iguana should not appear stressed.

It is usually impossible to tell the difference between a male and female iguana until about eighteen months of age. Even then only a herpetologist can probably tell the difference. There are some behaviors as the iguana grows that serve as guidelines for sex determination. A head-bobbing motion in general is said to be a male behavior but in some instances has been observed in females as well.

It is important not to make the environment too hot for the iguana either. Most reptiles regulate their exact body temperature by moving back and forth between the sun and the shade. Therefore it is important to set up a heat gradient in your terrarium: there should be a hot spot and a cooler spot in the tank, rather than one uniform temperature.

Since most people do not keep their homes at 80 degrees, you will probably need to buy a commercial heater. The under-the-tank heater is a popular one because it serves to act as a heat gradient when placed under one end of the habitat, leaving the other end cooler. Heat rocks are sold as well and though they may seem like a good idea, they actually are not. Many reptiles have been burned by these heat rocks so try to steer clear of these. There are many incandescent heat and light bulbs that are sold as well. Many offer heat but no light and thus can be used at night. Regardless of how you heat your reptile enclosure, it will be important to invest in a few thermometers so you can observe the temperature closely.

Calcium and the vitamin D3 are crucial to the green iguana. Without these the iguana will die. This is why light is so important to iguanas. There are two types of ultraviolet rays: the UVA and the UVB. UVA rays are needed by plants and can be found in plant-growth lights. Reptiles require UVB rays to synthesize or make vitamin D3. Vitamin D can be acquired from food or from the exposure to the sun. Vitamin D is needed for calcium metabolism by aiding in the absorption of calcium. Vitamin D works hand in hand with Vitamin A. An absence of these vitamins can cause metabolic bone disease and other abnormalities. In your reptile enclosure it will be crucial that you have a UVB light, which can be turned on for an hour or two each day. Make sure there is both light and shade so the iguana can go back and forth.

Adult iguanas can become aggressive and territorial when they reach sexual maturity. It is also important to remember the baby iguana that you buy at the pet store that starts out at six inches can grow to be four to six feet in length at adulthood. It is extremely hard to pawn off an adult iguana so you want to be sure of your commitment before you buy an iguana.

An iguana also needs water. Water is needed for the normal functioning of every cell in the body of the reptile. Iguanas do not drink from a pool or dish of water like normal animals. Instead, they lap up water from the sides of the enclosure and from rocks. So it is important to mist the aquarium two to three times a day. This will also create a humid environment for these animals, which keeps the skin of the iguana from drying out.

There is much controversy on what to feed your iguana; iguanas cannot live on lettuce alone. Most people can agree on the idea that iguanas are vegetarians. Most people feed a classic diet of fresh raw fruits and vegetables. You want to be sure to avoid spinach because it can hinder calcium absorption. Some people supplement the diet with calcium-rich and protein sources such as dry dog food, scrambled eggs, and cooked chicken. It is best to check with a herpetologist or reptile veterinarian. Specially-formulated diet supplements can be purchased at the pet store and are often a good idea, especially ones that provide extra calcium. A dietary supplement such as Rep-Cal, which you can sprinkle on food, provides the iguana with extra calcium and vitamins. There are also several commercial iguana diets available. These are OK to feed in moderation, but you should give your iguana variety in its diet. Juvenile iguanas should be fed every day until they are about two years of age. Once they reach two years of age you can feed them every other day. Be sure to remove all uneaten food within a few hours. Fruit and vegetables can spoil easily, especially under the heat conditions of the reptile enclosure.

When setting up the reptile enclosure, the larger it is the better. Most aquariums are too small to accommodate a full grown iguana. Most dedicated owners who have had the iguana for some time turn to custom made enclosures with glass doors and a combination of screen and wood to help balance heat and ventilation. Regardless of the style, you choose you must have one that is escape proof, unless you don't mind finding your iguana in odd places. It should have a lock on it. If you decide to go with an aquarium-style enclosure for the time being, you have to be sure that the aquarium can support the light structures needed for the iguana.

As for items in the cage, you should have a ceramic feeding dish. Iguanas like to climb so having tree branches are also a good idea to have in the cage. Iguanas also like to hide; although there are many commercial products available, cardboard boxes seem to be ideal because you can dispose of them when they get soiled.

It is essential that you look at all the considerations before buying a reptile. They are delicate animals that require owners who are sensitive for their needs. When in doubt, ask questions and research the animals before you buy on impulse. On the plus side, when given the adequate care and attention, iguanas can be wonderful pets.